Join nomad Emerson on a journey through some of his favorite nature reserves, hiking trails, historic towns, and off-the-beaten-path places in this little-known Spanish region.
Photo © Emerson Mendoza Ayala
Time slows down as soon as you set foot in Spain's most undiscovered region, Extremadura. But before you start exploring, take a few minutes to connect with the surrounding nature. Breathe deeply the Mediterranean forest’s pure, scented air, cross barefoot the closest cold-water stream, and become aware of the silence while contemplating the dark green slopes that skim the clear sky on the horizon.
Then, you’ll be ready to visit Cáceres and Badajoz provinces – Spain’s two largest – that make up Extremadura.
I was raised here, and I couldn’t think of a better way to get inspired to write this article than to travel back home.
- Landscapes and parks in Extremadura
- Cities: Mérida, Cáceres, and Plasencia
- Traditions and festivals
- What to eat in Extremadura
- My favorite off-the-beaten-path places
Landscapes and parks in Extremadura
Distance allows us to see things from different perspectives and rediscover, as travelers, the places we visited long ago as locals. This happens whenever I go back to the timeless and underrated Extremadura.
The vistas vary from endless dehesas (meadows) – where cows, fighting bulls, sheep, and black Iberian pigs graze peacefully under the shadows of evergreen cork and holly oaks – to mighty waterfalls, dense woods, and mountain chains.
I remember with affection the spring day my best friend Alberto got his driving license, and we went on a road trip to Valle del Jerte. We left Plasencia’s Valcorchero granite outcrops and reservoir, following the winding river until we sighted the marvelous cherry blossom valley in all its splendor – and dare I say it rivaled Japan.
This is not the only breathtaking place in the region – 31mi (50km) to the south, is the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and National Park of Monfragüe. Located in the very heart of Cáceres province and crossed by the Tagus River, it’s among the best places in Europe for wildlife spotting (such as wild boar, red fox, and otters), birding, and stargazing.
To see why the Arabs called this place The Abyss, venture along the 10mi (16km) internal Red Route via El Salto del Gitano lookout, reaching the 9th-century castle watchtower for sunset. An unforgettable experience.
I also love the surreal aragonite crystal formations of the cave of Castañar de Ibor and the ancient, Appalachian-type landforms at Villuercas Ibores Jara UNESCO Global Geopark, about an hour’s drive southeast of Monfragüe
Cities: Mérida, Cáceres, and Plasencia
I've found that most people I've crossed paths with can’t locate Extremadura on a map despite having visited Spain, and I don't blame them. It’s easy to overlook that a country is more than just its capital and major cities.
But here, far from Madrid and Barcelona, the rich legacy of Vettones, Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, Jews, and Christians can be found all over the territory and has influenced the culture, architecture, gastronomy, and traditions of western Spain.
I like to walk the Ruta de la Plata pilgrimage path with a twist: paying homage to Extremadura’s World Heritage sites. I start by visiting the well-preserved Roman Archaeological Ensemble of Mérida, whose origins date back to 25 BC, and then the harmonious architectural amalgam of styles of the Royal Monastery of Guadalupe and Old Town of Cáceres.
Forget about maps after passing through the impressive Arco de la Estrella – the main gate to the walled enclosure. To find Cáceres’ hidden gems, just walk around its intricate alleys and ask locals for the places they love. Mine are by Cuesta del Marqués: Yusuf Al-Burch Arabic Museum House, the views from San Francisco Javier Church’s bell tower and Baluarte (bastion) de los Pozos and Olivar de la Judería park.
Last but not least, there’s Plasencia, where my home is. Within the old city walls are renaissance palaces, Romanesque churches, a Jewish quarter and a cathedral complex with priceless artistic wealth, whose peculiarity is to have an unfinished Plateresque New Cathedral attached to the Old one.
Traditions and festivals
No matter when you visit Extremadura, you’ll find interesting and entertaining cultural festivals celebrating local traditions.
To chase away the evils and leave the past behind, Piornal villagers throw a few thousands enormous turnips at Jarramplas, a (perhaps not so fortunate) neighbor who personifies a cheerful devil and goes around the city beating a drum each 19th and 20th of January.
Across the mountains in Valle del Ambroz, Hervás remembers and relives the period of coexistence between the Jewish and Christian communities by organizing Los Conversos cultural festival during the first week of July, including theatrical plays, concerts, poetry readings, and projection mapping.
Spring is the best season to stroll around Plasencia’s cobblestone streets, but I also encourage you to visit in summer, when it hosts the Martes Mayor on the first Tuesday in August. The city travels back eight centuries in time, recreating the medieval market’s atmosphere with live music, traditional montehermoseña clothes (with their colorful, tasseled hats and richly embroidered sleeves), handcraft stalls, and food from the neighboring comarcas.
What to eat in Extremadura
We tend to undervalue what we have on our doorstep, venturing as far as possible from home, thinking that we already know our region and have sampled all the products our country offers – often to realize later how wrong we were. For example, on my last visit home, I tried chafaina (a traditional stew made with lamb meat and offal) for the first time – it tasted much better than it sounds or looks.
Extremadura has very delicious and diverse local food, as well as a unique gastronomic and social experience: el tapeo (where you order a drink and get tapa for free).
I like to order freshly baked toast, spread with tomatoes and jamón ibérico de bellota, seasoned with regional extra-virgin olive oil, Pimentón de la Vera (locally made, smoked paprika) and a pinch of salt.
It’s great to try homemade tapas as you move from bar to bar: Torta del Casar (a creamy cheese made from goat’s milk), zorongollo (roasted-pepper salad), paprika-spiced patatas revolconas, caldereta (goat meat stew) or migas (a shepherd’s dish created with breadcrumbs, meats, vegetables, and garlic, seasoned with paprika), accompanied with craft beer – including the regional specialty, the award-winning cherry beer – a generous glass of Ribera del Guadiana or pitarra homemade red wine.
In Plasencia, there's a Feria de la Tapa (tapas fair) in Sept/Oct, with a long list of participating bars – and every year you can vote for the best tapa.
My favorite off-the-beaten-path places
The Gorge of Hell (or Garganta de Los Infiernos) Natural Reserve is by far my favorite place to explore when I come back home. It’s the perfect place to chill and refresh every summer and there are numerous options for outdoor activities – trekking, canyoning, canoeing, paddle surfing, and mountain biking trails.
Once, I joined a local association on a nocturnal hike starting at Los Pilones natural pool. We walked into the wild under a starry sky on a full-moon night, and even heard wolves howling in the distance. It was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had.
For introspection, I love to visit the history-rich county of Las Hurdes, where the echoes of legends – about elves, the Macho Lanú (a mythological billy goat/human creature), enchanted Moorish princesses, and much more – are passed on from one generation to the next. This isolated shepherd's refuge has innumerable hidden architectural treasures and welcomes all those who are ready to embrace nature and dive into their culture.
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3 Comments
Hi, I would like to discover extremadura as wellness and yoga coach and do retreats im this region, do activities in the nature amd eat healthy food. Do you know any venues that would be optional to organise retreats or to welcome me as a visitor to discover the region? I also would be onterested in renting in the future a country side house as living close by nature is what I am looking for. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Namaste.
Hi Elia,
Several years ago I volunteered with Pueblo Inglès, an English-mentoring program held for one week in the Extremadura region. It was held in an idyllic setting just outside La Alberca, in a small, rustic resort called La Abadía de los Templarios.
The country setting was peaceful, the large pool was lovely during “siesta” time, the facilities were very comfortable, and the staff were excellent! 👌
I remember thinking what a perfect spot it would be for a retreat.
I’m not sure how frequently Pueblo Inglès has it booked, but it might be worth checking out.
Best of luck.
Namaste 🙏
Shannon
Are these trips organized? How much does it cost?
Im ready to travel next year i am not good with direction i get lost on a moment notice! So I need company I would like to travel spain sounds very interesting They always penalize for being single charge more i find someone i barely know to share hit & miss Bottom line im not paying single supplement Its bad enough im single (better than being abused) is that a crime to be single and poor?
I will soon be 65 but have my mothers genes young at heart always ready for adventure At 51 i climbed mountain in Uganda (country i was born but kicked out by Idi Amin ) Intelligent but Not smart You asians are controlling my econmy get out in 90 days (otherwise be shoot by my men or worse be rapped Not men just women & children) We got out, my dad had been there 30 years, our business, our homes stolen, money in bank useless Our 24 carat gold (bangles, chains, rings) stolen when our suitcases check at airport You say nothing Goal to get out alive All common wealth countries came to take us out of harms way. Families separated over 18 apply seaprate. Grand parents health concern go back to India I never saw my grand ma again i slept with her everyday she told me ghost stories they can walk on water they have unfinished business so their soul comes back she said there are many ghosts in India. Never been, don't know,